Moroccan Embroidery on Leather
Moroccan Embroidery
Moroccan embroidery—"Tarz" in Arabic—is a rich and colorful tradition with deep cultural roots. It's not just decorative; it often carries symbolic meaning and is tied to regional identity, especially in places like Fez, Rabat, Meknes, and Tétouan. It’s used on clothing (like caftans and djellabas), home textiles, ottomans and footrests and ceremonial items, and each region has its own signature patterns and stitches.
Main Types of Moroccan Embroidery:
1. Tarz Fassi (Fez Embroidery)
Named after the city of Fez, the spiritual capital of Morocco, this embroidery is beautiful and unique. Fesi embroidery is characterized by the resemblance of the design of the back of the fabric to its front. There are no knots or tangles hidden under the tablecloth; the reversible pattern is clearly visible when the fabric is turned over. In fact, it can be difficult to distinguish the front and back sides!
The stitch is a hybrid of cross stitch and straight stitch. Surprisingly, many women do not mark the fabric before embroidering. The pattern of fesi embroidery is usually floral or geometric. The chosen patterns may carry symbolism, but not necessarily. For example, some women may embroider the Hand of Fatima or an evil eye symbol for protection.
In Fez, the most common color for embroidery is fesi blue or green, which is also found on pottery. Maroon, red, and mixed colors are also common.
Fez Embroidery uses patterns that are largely geometric. The women traditionally worked sitting on the floor, although the frame is now quite often set on a table
- Origin: Fez
- Style: Monochromatic (usually white on white or single-color threads)
- Technique: Counted thread, very precise, using stitches like cross-stitch or double running stitch
- Used for: Tablecloths, pillowcases, ceremonial garments
2. Tarz Rbati (Rabat Embroidery)
- Origin: Rabat
- Style: Bright, colorful threads
- Motifs: Floral, leafy vines, geometric borders
- Technique: Surface embroidery, more expressive and freehand
- Used for: Decorative items and clothing
3. Tarz Tetouani (Tétouan Embroidery)
- Origin: Northern Morocco (Tétouan)
- Style: Influenced by Andalusian art
- Characteristics: Delicate, refined stitching often on fine fabrics like silk
Common Stitches
- Cross-stitch: Often used in Fez embroidery
- Chain stitch: Common in colorful Rabat-style pieces
- Stem stitch: For outlining floral motifs
- Satin stitch: For filling shapes
- Couching: Metallic thread is laid on the fabric and stitched down with tiny invisible stitches—common in ceremonial garments
Moroccan Embroidery on Leather
Moroccan embroidery on leather is a beautiful and intricate art form that blends traditional craftsmanship with luxurious materials. It's often used to decorate bags, slippers (babouches), ottomans, poufs, belts, book covers, and jackets. The embroidery typically features geometric patterns, floral motifs, and arabesques, often stitched in vibrant silk threads or metallic gold/silver thread.
Here are a few characteristics of Moroccan leather embroidery:
Materials
- Leather: Usually goatskin (like the famous Fez leather), soft yet durable.
- Thread: Silk, cotton, or metallic threads for contrast and color.
Designs & Motifs
- Geometric patterns (inspired by Islamic art)
- Floral and vine motifs
- Stars, diamonds, and circular patterns
- Sometimes includes Amazigh (Berber) symbols
Techniques
- Hand-stitched embroidery
- Often combined with embossing, cutwork, or metal studs
- Regional styles vary: Fez, Marrakech, and Tiznit have different patterns and techniques